Villa Creek's Cris Cherry: What a Great Winemaker!

Departing for a minute from politics and the market, I have to mention a great winemaker we were fortunate enough to host at a wine dinner for 60+ people over the weekend. I'm a semi-knowledgeable wine enthusiast, at best, but it isn't tough to discern when you're dealing with a committed craftsman, and Cris Cherry of Villa Creek Cellars in the massively-underrated Paso Robles is truly one-of-a kind.

RTH will certainly be writing more on this event soon, so I'll be brief. If you're not familiar with California's central coast, you really should get to know Paso Robles. In particular, West Paso is without a doubt making the best Rhones in California, and it is led by the epic vineyards Denner & James Berry.

Cherry, who also runs the best restuarant in Paso Robles (also named Villa Creek), not only sources from those spectacular vineyards, he buys acreage from them, meaning he dictates exactly how they're farmed, harvested, etc., rather than just buying grapes he's hasn't controlled along the way. His specialty is typically making some of the most interesting blends (quoting Robert Parker "One of my favorite wineries from Paso Robles is Villa Creek Cellars, which fashions innovative Rhone Ranger blends that taste great and, for the most part, are fairly priced."), but it was two of his straighter plays which really caught my attention on Saturday.

First was his 2005 Garnacha, a 100% grenache from the Denner vineyard which was indeed "singing," as Cris said it would be. If you're not familiar, Grenache is what I call the pinot of the Rhone varietals, typically lighter than the better-known Syrah but still quite fruit-forward-- a great representation of the best California has to offer and perhaps my favorite grape. If you go to the site, you'll see the current Garnacha, the '06, is sold out and we thought the '05 was, too, but Cris admitted he kept a little around; I have no idea if what he has left of the 2005 is for sale to the public, but trust me-- it's worth a shot.

The other one that stunned me was a new offering from Villa Creek, the 2006 Vulture's Post, which is a blend of 80% Mourvedre, with just 15% Syrah and 5% Grenache, as well. Mourvedre is a heavier, more earthy blending grape which is typically used to add weight to Syrah and other Rhones, but this offering was just absolutely delicious--tasting of deep purple fruits with great finesse. Amazing.

I've already written more than I intended, sounded more wine weenie-ish than I ever have and don't want to steal RTH's thunder, but suffice it to say: Villa Creek and Cris Cherry have a huge fan here in Huntington Beach. Check 'em out.