Cold Showers and Machu Picchu

Traveling with a 2-year-old is tough work. But having to get that two year old to the train station at 11,000 feet is even tougher. We had been in Cusco for a few days trying to get used to the altitude before moving on to see Machu Picchu. If you have never been up that high before, let me tell you, it is a real treat. You lose your appetite, you feel like an 80 year old with emphysema and being irritable is the norm. The only good thing about the elevation was that I only needed to drink half the amount of beer as I usually do. That saved us a few bucks and that was important because after a few weeks of traveling, money was tight and the reliable credit card had been stolen. We were on our own. No more Mr. Credit Card to help us out of dodgy situations. Cash is king and we needed it as we boarded the train at daybreak to venture to Machu Picchu.

All I wanted was a room with a view of the Vilcanota River and we sure did get it. We got the view from a dirty closet with no hot water. The little town at the base of Machu Picchu is Aguas Calientes and they have you hooked once you step off the train. There are very few options for anything and prices are higher as a result. Accommodations can be divided into a few categories: too much +$500 a night, too much for a dump +$100 and a cheap dump-dump $20. We opted for the cheap dump-dump and after attempting to take a shower in ice water, I was wondering if spending more money for hot water would be worth it. No! Showering is overrated anyway and we were only going to be there for three nights, so we decided to forgo cleanliness. Actually that was not the case; we just bathed using my daughters’ wipes. They were surprisingly effective and kept our murky scent to a minimum.

It is not cheap to see Machu Picchu. Over $100 each for the train ticket, $38 daily pass and a $20 bus ride to the top gets you in. But even a college kid or a broke English teacher will tell you, it is money well spent. The drive up alone will blow you away. It feels like you are climbing up to the heavens. The steepness and sheer magnitude of the Andes can’t be explained, it has to be seen. As far as Machu Picchu goes, the same can be said. It has to be seen. I have been there a few times and the stone structures built by the Incas are amazing, but it is the surrounding terrain that makes one stare in awe. No one is still certain of how they were able to turn the peaks of the Andes into a plateau, let alone get all the stones to the top. All I know, is that lugging my two year old all over Machu Picchu left me weak, thirsty and hungry and thank God for the overpriced, but tasty snack bar right outside the entrance gate. While my wife and I enjoyed an ice cold Cusquena and my daughter a lemonade, we agreed that this one of the best days of our lives.

A few quick beers and we were on our way down to our dump of a hotel and an optional freezing shower. However, the dilapidated tilted balcony and view of the river made up for the deficiencies of our room. After a few more beers on the balcony and a baby wipe bath we were on our way to get some good food. The town does have many restaurants that serve up good food for the hungry. We ate at a delicious pizza joint at the town square and planned our next move. We had to get back to Cusco, then to Lima and finally south to catch up with an old friend and get some waves. Over a nightcap on the balcony while my daughter was fast asleep inside her cozy sleeping bag, we agreed that this is must see for anyone. It is one of the few places in the world that leaves you standing with your mouth wide opened asking how?

 |  |