Lifestyle Whispering in Scotland!
By The Real Todd Harrison | June 24, 2008 | 3:52 PM | 5 Comments
What do William Wallace, Haggis, and golf have in common? Lifestyle whispering in Scotland!
The kid just got back from a week in Scotland and let me say my legs are chapped, the liver is shot, and my golf game is in ruins. Other than that, I had a great time. Seven friends and I landed in Edinburgh, Scotland and hit the ground running. “Adventures in Golf” set up this trip and if you ever wanted to play the most amazing courses in the world, this company will make it happen for you. The only complaint I had was the Scores Hotel in St. Andrews--more on that in part II of this article.
I figured if I was going to be in Scotland, I should buy a kilt and brush up on my Braveheart movie quotes. The kilt didn’t go over so well. With 60-mph winds, it wreaked havoc on the "legs." After a bad round of golf, I told my caddie, "Before we let you leave, your commander must cross that fairway, present himself before this group, put his head between his legs, and kiss his own arse." That is one of my favorite lines from Braveheart. Needless to say, that didn’t go over well either.
So here's the rundown of our trip:
After landing and checking into our hotel, we went straight to Musselburgh links in East Lothian. The Scots claim this is the oldest course in the world.
In fact, Mary Queen of Scotland was rumored to have played the course in 1567. It is a nine-hole links course that we used as a warm-up for the big boys. The Old Links at Musselburgh was originally seven holes, with another added in 1838 and the full nine-hole came into play in 1870. The four-and-a-quarter inch diameter holes used became the standard during the 19th century and it just happened to be the width of the implement used to cut the holes. In 1893, the Royal and Ancient, who controls all of the golf in the United Kingdom, made the size mandatory.
On day two, we played Gullane, course 1. This was our first real taste of Scotland links golf. The course was spectacula
r and the views were amazing. The course is considered one of the best in Scotland and is a British Open qualifying course. This was also our first taste at playing golf in gale force winds. I can’t remember the last time I hit a 120-yard perfect drive!
The next day we played the famed course – Muirfield.
Without a doubt, it is one of the most challenging golf courses in the world. Not only do you have to contend with the weather, but the sand traps are 10-feet deep and the rough is up to your knees. Spray a ball right or left and you are finished. Muirfield is the only course to have hosted the British Open 15 times, with the most recent in 2002. Muirfield requires golfers to be below a 15 handicap maximum and for good reason. If you are not playing your best, you will easily be in the triple digits. There wasn’t enough lead in all of the pencils in Scotland to write down my score.
After Muirfield, we headed to St. Andrews. It was about a two-hour drive around the firth of forth, an estuary between the North Sea and Fife. The drive was scenic although you have to contend with the
se things called “roundabouts” (think Chevy Chase in European Vacation – I can’t seem to get left!) and drive on the opposite side of the road. Luckily for us, my friend Shawn McCann was the designated driver for the entire trip. Once we arrived, we realized why St. Andrews was a magical place for golfers. There are courses everywhere you looked and the architecture was magnificent. This was truly the home of golf.
The next day we suited up and headed to the St. Andrews New Course. They call it “new” but it opened in 1895. The course is challenging. If you hit it straight and long, you are good to go. If you are like me – a little right – a little left – it is tough. Again the wind was something to contend with and the rough is brutal. One of my favorite holes was the 10th – a 450-yard par 4. It was one of my favorites because I parred it. One of the few on this trip! This was also rated as one of the best holes in the world in the book, “500 Greatest Golf Holes.” I knew I had good taste.
After golf we had an invitation to the Royal and Ancient Golf Club. It is an impossible to walk the hallowed halls unless you know someone. I said I was friends with Chip Hanlon and we were in. The R&A is a private golf club and is also the governing body of golf throughout the world outside the USA. The club's origins lie in the creation of the Society of St Andrews Golfers by 22 Noblemen and Gentlemen of the Kingdom of Fife in 1754. Very few applicants ever become members. In fact, we were told that basically someone has to die and then you have to go through an application process that rivals the presidency. If that is the case, then any buffoon should be in!
The next day was the golf day of all golf days. We played the Old Course and Kingsbarns--36 of the most magnificent holes in golf. Walking 18 holes was hard enough, add another round and the dogs were barking. Thank god for the caddies. The Old Course is everything you would imagine and more. Without question, the Old Course is something magical. Standing on the 1st tee with St. Andrews behind you and the history and tradition was incredible. The course is a classic links course with tight fairways and hard greens. Unlike in the States, if you hit a ball on the green, here, say goodbye and watch it roll another 50 yards. The bunkers are deep and unforgiving. Most of us were constantly hitting bunker shots backwards because it was impossible to get the ball out. Walking up the 18th fairway was surreal. We have seen Tiger, Palmer and Nicklaus walk the same fairway. Of course, they were always in the fairway and I was just to the right after ricocheting off a house and mini-van. Literally, a road and row of buildings line this fairway. I guess I just wanted to leave my mark on St. Andrews!
Once I tapped in for a double bogey, we loaded the vans and headed to Kingsbarns. Now this was my type of course – wider fairways and large greens. It was still a links course, but it was more forgiving and right on the North Sea. It reminded me of Pebble Beach or Bandon Dunes. The course was developed by a couple of Americans and is only eight years old. The course is touted as a must-play while in Scotland and I would agree.
On our final day, we played Carnoustie.
I was told this was harder than Muirfield if the weather is bad. Fortunately, the weather was better than any other day of the trip. Carnoutise has hosted 7 British Opens with the last in 2007. This course was no joke. We thought we had seen it all with regards to bunkers, but the “Spectacles” on 14 were insane. The other “spectacles” on the course consisted of my caddy zig-zagging the course trying to find my balls on 12 of the 18 holes. Carnoutise had tight fairways and fast greens, but if you hit it into the rough, more often than not, you were able to find the ball and get out of it. A little foot wedge was my club of choice.
So that was our golden adventure in Scotland. In part two of this article, I will tell you about our accommodations and the best restaurants in town. FORE!!!!!
Cheers,
The Real Todd Harrison
www.adventures-in-golf.com
www.muirfield.org.uk
www.standrews.org.uk
www.carnoustiegolflinks.co.uk
www.gullanegolfclub.com
www.kingsbarns.com
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