California Chardonnay Done Right: Lioco Wine

If you think California can only produce Chardonnay's without real varietal character, think again. The 2006 Lioco Stuhlmuller Vineyard is not your buttery over-oaked chard of California's past; it is more reminiscent of a fine French Chablis. Its graceful style combined with judicious acidity makes this wine meant for food. I found this wine in my local wine shop for $25 and its a bargain. This wine is a revelation and I cannot wait to pick up more of it. I believe Lioco is proving that California wines can in fact demonstrate a sense of place.

This wine is sourced from a designated block of old vines on flank of Russian River. On the foggy bank just north of the chalk hill gap lies the Stuhlmuller vineyard. It sits at confluence of Alexander Valley, Chalk Hill, and Russian River Valley appellations. Sometimes terrior can come off as just great marketing or wine snob wonkery, in this case there is a real sense of place with this wine. It's truly unique and worth your investment.
2006 Lioco Chardonnay
Stuhlmuller Vineyard
AVA: Alexander Valley
Tasting Notes:

• Nose: I detected notes of lemon, ginger, crushed seashells, and chalk. As it warmed in the glass, more complex floral tones also became apparent.(Jasmine tea and honeysuckle). This wine continued to reveal itself as it sat. To me this is one of the hallmarks of a great wine
• Tasting: Rounded on the palate while possessing a crisp, lively acidity. Tastes of lemons, pears, candied ginger with a lovely crisp mineral finish reminiscent of calcareous rock and seashells.

Lioco Wines are the brainchild of Matt Licklider (a seasoned wine import specialist), and Kevin O'Connor (wine director at the esteemed Spago-Beverly Hills). LI-cklider + OCO-nnor = LIOCO, in case you were wondering. The 2006 vintage is the first with their winemaker, Kevin Kelly and according to Matt and Kevin O, it' s the vintage year they will put their belief to the test, " that California can produce wines with a sense of place" Try it for yourself, and see what you think.

If you want to learn more about Lioco, start with their Brand Overview here. It's amazingly well focused. These guys have a clear vision about what want to do with wine and I think they'll be one to watch in 2008 and beyond.

Read more about this wine and others at West Coast Wine Country Adventures